Quick outline
- Why I tried tape molds
- The tapes I used (with real projects)
- Wins, fails, and weird surprises
- Tips I wish I knew sooner
- Who this is for
- Final verdict
Why I Even Used Tape For Molds
I love resin, but real silicone molds can get pricey. I make small stuff for gifts and my shop, and I like to test ideas fast—coasters, bookmarks, little trays. Tape is cheap, flat, and smooth. If you seal it right, it can hold resin and peel off clean. If you’re still hunting for the right roll, this list of the best tape for epoxy pours breaks down pros, cons, and budget picks.
I documented the complete play-by-play—including the panic moments—in a separate project log you can check out if you want every gritty detail.
You know what? It mostly worked. But I also had one sticky mess that smelled like defeat. I’ll spill it all.
The Tapes I Tested (and Where They Went)
I’m using my own cash here, not a brand deal. For a deeper breakdown of tape types and their adhesive quirks, I recommend the guide at Service Center Team.
- Tuck Tape (the red sheathing tape)
- Gorilla Clear Repair Tape
- Cheap clear packing tape (office supply aisle)
- 3M blue painter’s tape (spoiler: no)
- Regular duct tape (also no)
My base boards were melamine shelf off-cuts and scrap HDPE. For seams, I used 100% silicone caulk and, on faster days, hot glue. Gloves every time. I learned that the hard way when I got resin on my cuticles once. Not fun.
Real Projects I Built With Tape Molds
1) Ocean Coasters (Tuck Tape + melamine)
- Shape: 4-inch circles
- Walls: foam board strips wrapped in Tuck Tape
- Base: melamine board covered in Tuck Tape
- Seal: tiny bead of clear silicone along the inside seams
- Pour: 2-part epoxy with white, teal, and a touch of gold mica
How it went: No leaks. Not even a weep. The surface came out shiny and smooth. The tape peeled off like it was happy for me. I used a craft knife to score the edge, then bent the walls back. That squeaky peel sound was weirdly nice.
Note: I warmed the resin with a heat gun on low. Tuck Tape didn’t wrinkle from heat. Some cheaper tapes do.
2) Hex Tray (Gorilla Clear Repair Tape + acrylic base)
- Shape: 6-inch hex
- Walls: acrylic strips, inside lined with Gorilla tape
- Base: acrylic sheet with Gorilla tape
- Seal: hot glue, then rubbed a little petroleum jelly on the outer seams to keep drips from sticking
How it went: One tiny drip at a corner that I caught with a toothpick. The tray popped free clean. The tape left a glassy finish. I did get one hair in there—my dog sheds like a wish factory—so I picked it out between pours. You can buff tiny scuffs with 2000 grit and a dash of mineral oil after it cures. Works like a charm.
3) Bookmarks (packing tape + cutting mat)
- Shape: long rectangles (1.25 x 5 inches)
- Setup: I stuck strips of clear packing tape shiny-side up on my cutting mat, then built little tape “walls” on the edges
- Fill: pressed flowers and a gold flake line
How it went: No leaks, but the cheap tape curled at the ends. I had to weigh corners with metal washers. Release was easy, though. The back was smooth, like a phone screen. Next time, I’d use a stiffer tape or tape onto melamine.
I even got bold and used the same tape trick to pour a crystal-clear face for a custom photo frame—spoiler: glossy success. You can see that whole process in this post.
4) Big Letter K (cardboard wrapped in Tuck Tape)
- Shape: chunky K about 8 inches tall
- Walls: cardboard ribs wrapped tight with Tuck Tape
- Base: melamine with Tuck Tape
- Seal: silicone caulk, smoothed with a damp finger
How it went: Heavy pour, about 12 ounces. I poured in two layers to cut heat. No warping. The tape held strong. The edges were crisp, just a faint seam line I sanded off. My niece has this on her shelf now with dried lavender inside. It smells nice, looks bold.
5) Hair Clips (painter’s tape fail)
- Shape: skinny bars
- Base: blue painter’s tape on acrylic
- Walls: more painter’s tape, folded and stacked
How it went: It leaked. Slow, sneaky leaks. The tape also left a matte, dusty look, and I could see the tape texture. I tried to fix the edges with a second skim coat. It helped, but honestly, not worth the hassle. Skip painter’s tape for resin molds.
What Worked Best (and Why)
- Tuck Tape: My top pick. It’s slick. Resin doesn’t grab it. It handles a heat gun without puckering. It sticks tight to melamine, foam board, and cardboard.
- Gorilla Clear Repair Tape: Great surface finish. Strong hold. Good for clear pieces where you want that glassy back.
- Cheap packing tape: Fine for small, flat shapes, but it can curl and wrinkle. Press it down with a plastic card to avoid trapped air.
- Duct tape: Left a weave texture. Also oozes a bit when warm. Pass.
- Painter’s tape: Leaks and leaves fuzz. Hard pass.
Little Things That Made a Big Difference
- Seal those seams: A thin, neat line of 100% silicone inside the joint is worth the extra minute. Let it set before you pour. Hot glue is faster but can leave little gaps.
- Press your tape: Use a plastic card and press from center out. Air bubbles under tape will show up on your resin face.
- Keep dust away: I cover fresh pours with a plastic storage bin. I’ve used a big bowl too. It looks silly but keeps fuzz off.
- Pour in two layers: Less heat, less warping, fewer leaks from thermal creep. Slow and steady wins this one.
- Tape release trick: Score around the edge with a craft knife before pulling the tape walls. The tape will break cleanly instead of tugging the resin edge.
- Add a fillet: If you want a soft inner corner, run a tiny silicone fillet with your fingertip. Gives a more finished look.
Stuff I Messed Up (So You Don’t Have To)
- Blue tape mistake: I thought painter’s tape would be neat and easy. It wasn’t. Matte finish, micro leaks, sad sighs.
- Too much heat: I blasted bubbles with a torch once and the cheap tape wrinkled under the gloss. Now I use a heat gun on low or a quick pass with alcohol in a fine mister.
- Skipping the seal: I tried to rush a small tray without silicone. The corner smiled at me and then cried resin. I had to sand off a drip mountain the next day.
- Old tape: A dusty roll won’t stick flat. Wipe the surface and tear off the first foot of tape. Fresh tack matters.
Price, Wear, and Cleanup
- Tuck Tape: My roll cost about ten bucks and lasts ages. I used it for three projects and still have half the roll.
- Gorilla Clear: About seven to nine dollars a roll. A little goes a long way for small molds.
- Melamine scraps: I get off-cuts from the hardware store bargain bin. Cheap and flat.
- Cleanup: Peel and toss the tape, scrape cured drips with a razor. For silicone, let it fully cure and pull it like a thin noodle. Weirdly satisfying.
Who This Is For
- Makers testing shapes fast without buying a silicone mold every time
- Kids’ craft sessions (with adult help, masks, and gloves)
- Etsy folks trying new designs for coasters, trays, letters, keychains
If you’re dreaming bigger—like pouring a full set of countertop slabs—you’ll need a sturdier approach; I documented my kitchen-counter adventure for when you’re ready to scale up.
If you need heavy-duty, repeat use molds for big pours, get real silicone or build rigid HDPE molds. Tape is great for trials, short runs, and simple forms.
If, during those long curing times, you end up scrolling your phone for something a bit spicier than workshop tips, you might find yourself looking for sex—that article lays out straightforward, safety-first strategies to meet like-minded adults online, saving you from endless swiping so you can get back to either crafting or connecting IRL.
While the resin sets, you could also swap