I love fresh air. Bugs? Not so much. My house is old, and none of the doors are “standard.” So store-bought screens never fit right. I spent a few weekends making custom screen doors by myself. If you want an even deeper dive into the whole escapade, complete with photos of my crooked cuts and the occasional splinter, check out I Made My Own Custom Door Screens (And Lived to Tell About It). I tried three ways. Some wins, some flops, and a few band-aids. Here’s what actually worked for me.
If you’d rather dodge the trial-and-error and let a pro size things up, the Service Center Team can custom-fit screens for just about any quirky opening.
My Weird Door Sizes (Real Numbers)
- Back door: 35-3/8 inches wide by 79-1/4 inches tall (a hair narrow, a hair tall)
- Pantry side door: 27-1/2 by 77-7/8 (tiny and a bit crooked)
- Patio opening: 47-1/4 by 79 for a screen panel next to a French door
I measured each spot in three places—top, middle, bottom—because the frames aren’t square. Little gaps invite big mosquitoes. Learned that the hard way.
If you want a clear step-by-step refresher before you grab the tape measure, check out this straightforward walkthrough from Lowe’s on how to measure for a screen door.
Method 1: Aluminum Cut-to-Size Frame Kit
What I used:
- Prime-Line cut-to-size screen frame kit (5/16-inch frame, gray corners)
- Charcoal fiberglass screen (36-inch roll)
- 0.140-inch spline (the thicker bead held better)
- Spline roller, hacksaw, speed square, tape, file, painter’s tape
Why this kit? It’s cheap, light, and easy to cut. I picked it up at a big-box store. I made two frames from one kit and a spare roll of screen.
What I did:
- I measured the back door opening tight, then subtracted 1/8 inch on width and height for wiggle room.
- I cut the four frame pieces with a hacksaw, then filed the burrs so the corners slid in clean.
- I laid the screen over the frame, taped it lightly, and rolled the spline in. I kept the screen just snug, not drum-tight.
What went wrong first time:
- I pulled the screen too tight on one side. The frame bowed like a banana. I had to pull the spline out and redo it. Gentle tension works. Heat helps too—I left the screen in the sun for 10 minutes and it smoothed out.
- I used 0.125 spline at first. It popped out when I tapped the frame. Swapped to 0.140 and it held.
What I liked:
- Cost was about $40 for the whole setup, with extra screen left over.
- The frame is clean and slim. Looks store-bought if you don’t look too close.
- I added a center crossbar at 36 inches using a small bar kit. It stopped the sag.
What I didn’t like:
- Corners can wiggle if you don’t square it. I pressed the frame tight into a door jamb while I rolled the spline. Simple fix, but fussy.
- It rattled a bit in wind. I added thin foam weatherstrip on the jamb. No more rattle.
Time: 90 minutes for the first one, 40 minutes for the second. My hands were sore, but the click of the spline roller was oddly satisfying.
Method 2: Screen Tight System on a Wood Frame
What I used:
- Screen Tight base and cap (white)
- 1-inch wood screws
- Black fiberglass screen and 0.160 spline
- Drill/driver, snips, miter saw for cap corners
I did this on the pantry door, which is way out of square. The Screen Tight track mounts right to the wood around the door and holds the screen with a cap. It’s forgiving when the frame isn’t straight.
What I liked:
- You can adjust as you go. If the door leans a bit, you pull the screen right in place and snap the cap on. Nice and tidy.
- It seals better on the edges. Fewer gnat sneak-ins.
- Strong. Kids leaned on it; it didn’t budge.
What I didn’t like:
- The cap looks chunky. Not ugly, but not slim.
- White cap shows dirt. I wiped it with a Magic Eraser and it was fine, but still.
- You need to watch the door sweep so the cap doesn’t rub.
Tips:
- Pre-drill the base track so the wood doesn’t split.
- Cut the cap 1/16 short so it snaps flush without bowing.
Time: About 2 hours with careful cuts. I slowed down, and it paid off.
Method 3: Trim-to-Fit Magnetic Screen Curtain
What I used:
- Flux Phenom magnetic screen
- Sharp scissors, fabric glue, binder clips
- Thumbtacks plus the included adhesive
This was for the patio, because I didn’t want to install a full frame yet. I trimmed about 3/4 inch from each side and re-hemmed the edge with fabric glue. I used binder clips as clamps while the glue set.
What I liked:
- Fast. Install took 20 minutes.
- Hands-free. The magnets close behind you when you carry groceries.
- Dog-friendly. My lab, Sunny, ran through it all day.
What I didn’t like:
- Wind. Strong gusts lifted the bottom a little. I added two small fishing weights to the lower corners. Better, not perfect.
- The top adhesive strip held okay, but I still added four tacks to be safe.
- Not as bug-tight at the bottom on rough threshold stone.
Good for renters or short-term use. Not my forever choice.
Real-Life Lessons I Wish Someone Told Me
- Measure three times. Write numbers on blue tape and stick them on the door. Saves your brain.
- Doors aren’t square. Measure top, middle, bottom. Use the smallest number for tight spots.
- Leave 1/8 inch clearance on all sides. You can seal small gaps with weatherstrip if needed.
- Pick the right spline. If it slips, go one size up. If the frame bows, your mesh is too tight.
- Pet mesh is worth it. My cat, Pepper, tested the regular screen with her claws. Pet mesh held up.
- Tape your corners before you roll the spline. Prevents creep.
- Crossbar = strength. A mid-rail stops sag on taller doors.
- Warm mesh lays flatter. Sun helps. A hair dryer works in a pinch.
- Smooth, even pressure beats brute force—exactly like when you’re tinting your own windows; bubbles happen when you rush.
Still scratching your head about exactly where to start and stop the tape? This concise photo guide shows you how to measure and can spare you an extra trip back to the hardware store.
Cost, Time, and Which One I’d Choose Again
- Aluminum frame kit: About $40 per door. Best balance of looks and price. My pick for most doors.
- Screen Tight: About $60 to $80 with parts. Best for crooked frames or heavy use.
- Magnetic screen: About $30. Best for rentals or quick airflow with pets and kids.
If you want a neat, lasting look, go with the aluminum kit and add a crossbar. If your door frame is a little wild, Screen Tight makes life easier. And if you just need air for the season, the magnetic curtain is fine.
Small Stuff That Made a Big Difference
- A real spline roller. The cheap plastic one worked, but the metal wheel felt smoother.
- A file for those sharp aluminum burrs. Saves fingers and screen tears.
- Thin foam weatherstrip to stop rattle.
- Short screws. Long ones can poke through trim and make you say words you don’t want kids to hear.
- Canned foam or gasket tape? After a weekend with a DIY foam insulation kit, I’m team “anything that seals gaps without making a mess.”
Final Take
DIY custom door screens aren’t fancy, but they’re doable. Mine look clean, they fit, and the bugs lost the battle. I had a few missteps—hello, bowed frame—but nothing a redo couldn’t fix. You know what? The breeze in my kitchen now feels like a small win every single day.
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