I Tried DIY Foam Insulation Spray — Here’s What Actually Happened

I live in an older house with tiny gaps everywhere. Cold air sneaks in like it pays rent. My laundry room sits over a crawl space, and my feet used to go numb in winter. You know what? I got tired of wearing two pairs of socks. So I tried do-it-yourself foam insulation spray. If you're still weighing up whether spray foam makes sense for your project, check out this comprehensive spray foam insulation guide that runs through the advantages, drawbacks, and key building-reg points.

If you want to see how someone else tackled similar leaks, the Service Center Team put together a candid rundown of their own weekend experiment with spray foam.

Here’s the real story—mess and all.

What I used (and why)

  • Great Stuff Big Gap Filler (straw cans) for holes up to about a few inches
  • Great Stuff Window & Door (low-expansion) around a new door jamb
  • A foam gun for better control (the straw is okay, but the gun is smoother)
  • Froth-Pak 200 kit for the basement rim joist (that’s the wood at the top of the foundation)

I also wore a hooded suit, goggles, and a mask with filters. The foam sticks to skin fast. It laughs at soap and water.

Where I sprayed

  • Basement rim joist: along the top of the concrete wall, all around the room
  • Pipe and wire holes: around the dryer vent, hose spigot, and a cable line
  • Attic hatch: the frame had a sneaky gap you could feel with your hand
  • Garage side door: swapped the old door, then sealed the frame

On a windy day, I could feel air moving by the dryer vent. After foam, nothing. Silent.

The setup and the mess (let me explain)

I warmed the cans in a bucket of warm water for 10 minutes. Shook each can hard. Practiced on cardboard. Then I laid down plastic and turned off any flames—no candles, no pilot lights, no jokes. For a step-by-step refresher on the best installation practices—including how warm your materials need to be—this concise install spray foam tutorial walks through the process with helpful visuals.

The straw cans worked fine for quick fixes. The gun gave me more control in tight corners. With the Froth-Pak, I kept the tanks in a warm room, ran the hoses straight, and changed tips when the foam slowed down.

Did I still get foam on my hair? Yes. Wear a cap. Learn from me.

What went great

  • The draft dropped fast. I could feel it right away at the rim joist.
  • The foam gripped the edges and didn’t sag. It set in about 10 minutes, cured overnight.
  • Fewer spiders in the basement. Not zero—but fewer. I’ll take it.
  • The garage door closes smoother now that the frame isn’t shifting from air leaks.

And the numbers? My basement hung around 61°F in January before. After, it was 64–65°F. My gas bill in the coldest month fell by about $18. Not huge, but real.

What bugged me

  • It’s sticky. If you don’t like sticky, this will test your soul.
  • The smell is sharp for a few hours. Vent the room. Take breaks.
  • I clogged two tips by pausing too long. Keep moving or swap tips.
  • I overfilled one spot by a door. It pushed a little. I had to scrape and redo with the Window & Door foam. Use low-expansion near frames.
  • The Froth-Pak cost a lot. It was still cheaper than the pro quote I got, but my wallet winced.

Still debating whether the mess is worth it? Check out this DIYer’s play-by-play—complete with misfires and budget math—for another honest perspective.

One more thing: exposed foam near living spaces may need a fire-rated coating. I painted my rim joist foam with an intumescent paint after it cured. Not fun. But safer.

Real results at my house

  • Basement: +3 to +4°F; the musty smell faded
  • Laundry time: no more frozen toes—just the usual lost socks
  • Attic hatch: no more frost outline on cold mornings
  • Dryer vent: no breeze on my hand test
  • Noise: a bit quieter; mower sounds softer

Is it magic? Nope. But it helps, and it stacks with weatherstrip and caulk.

Tips I wish I knew sooner

  • Keep cans warm. Cold foam comes out weird and shrinks more.
  • Short bursts. Let it puff, then add a little more. Layers beat blobs.
  • Use backer rod (foam rope) for big holes, then spray a thin layer.
  • Acetone works only before it cures. After that, it’s a knife and sandpaper.
  • Don’t foam tight against hot flues or vents. Use fire-safe methods there.
  • Mark wires and pipes with tape so you don’t bury a valve or junction.
  • Start in the far corner and work toward the exit—so you don’t foam yourself into a corner.
  • Low-expansion foam for windows and doors. Trust me on that one.

And if you’d like to compare different kit options before you buy, this comparative review of several foam insulation DIY kits is a solid place to start.

Money and time

  • Great Stuff cans: about $7 each; I used 7 cans over two weekends
  • Foam gun + canister: worth it if you’re doing many gaps
  • Froth-Pak 200: not cheap, but it covered my rim joist; took me 3 hours including setup and cleanup
  • Pro quote for the rim joist was about $1,200. My DIY gear and paint came to roughly one-third of that.

By the way, if trimming your heating costs leaves you with a little extra cash to indulge your sweet tooth, pop over to JustSugar for a nostalgia-packed assortment of candies and gummies that can make post-project cleanup taste a whole lot sweeter.

Once your wallet recovers and the foam cures, you may want to celebrate the win outside the house instead of sealing it up tighter. If you’re in the Inland Empire, treat yourself to a relaxing evening at Tryst in Chino where you can swap the hiss of spray foam for live music, craft cocktails, and a comfortably climate-controlled lounge—the guide gives you insider event details and menu highlights so you can kick back without any guesswork.

When to skip DIY

  • Old knob-and-tube wiring nearby? Call an electrician first.
  • If you smell gas or see water leaks, fix that before foam.
  • Whole attic roof or big crawl space? A crew might be smarter (and faster).

If any of those red flags pop up, consider lining up a quote from a vetted pro—one quick way is to book through the Service Center Team.

Would I do it again?

Yes—for gaps, rim joists, and little leak hunts. It’s like putting a sweater on your house. I wouldn’t use it on huge open areas alone. That’s a different job.

If you’re patient, a bit careful, and okay with sticky hands for a day, this can help a lot. It helped me. And I kind of enjoyed it—like frosting a cake, but the cake fights back.

Final take: 4.5 out of 5. Wear gloves. Keep the window open. And please, don’t foam your hair.